$120 for an oil change? You have to be kidding me, especially if you do it every 5,000 miles with synthetic oil. Now, I know Audi says you can go 10,000 miles, but that idea dates back to the time when Audi had to pay for maintenance, and most agree synthetic oil is on its last legs after 5,000 miles, especially in a twin turbo motor. For about 50% cheaper and just 30 minutes, you can change your oil by yourself, or train your kid to do it for you in exchange for a box of animal crackers.
- All Audi 2.7T Motors
- This DIY was performed on a 2003 Audi allroad C5 2.7T
- Ramps or jack/jack stands
- T-50 Torx head
- Wide flat blade screwdriver
- 19mm wrench or socket
- Strap wrench
- A willing 4-year-old
This is probably one of the easiest tasks to perform on your car. You will be removing the splash guard on the underside of your car, draining the used oil, replacing the oil filter and refilling with clean oil. Depending on the exact model of your car, you may not need any special tools other than Torx ratchet heads, which will only cost you about $20 for a set.
Note 1: Many companies claim to have filters that fit the 2.7T motor. They are NOT all equal. Many do not fit, as the threading is too shallow, and others are MUCH smaller than the OEM/Mann filters. I strongly suggest Mann or OEM for filters.
Note 2: Audi has approved oils for each motor. Be sure to only use those oils that meet this standard. Check the label on the oil. For the 2.7T, it should say “Meets VW Spec 502 00”
Note 3: The motor will be hot, even with only a few minutes of driving. Use caution.
I prefer to do oil changes with the engine slightly warm (not flaming hot), so drive the car for about 5-10 minutes (not just idle). Drive the car on ramps or jack up and place on jack stands to give sufficient access to the front undercarriage.
Remove the underbody splash guard. This is accomplished by removing the two T-50 Torx bolts and the six Flat Head dowel pins. With all hardware removed, pull toward the rear of the vehicle and down. Place out of the way. With the splash guard off, it’s a good idea to take a quick look around for any signs of leaks or any other potential mechanical issues.
Position ground cover and catch basin below the 19mm drain hole. Loosen the drain bolt and out comes the old, nasty oil. While the oil is draining, see if you can remove the oil filter with your hands. If not, use the strap wrench to gently loosen it. If your catch basin is large enough, unscrew the filter entirely. Please note that the filter will be full of oil. Allow both the drain hole and filter hole to drain completely.
Once the oil has completely drained, replace the 19mm drain bolt with the new bolt supplied in the kit. You can torque to 30 nm, or do 1/4 turn past snug. Using clean oil, lube the gasket of the filter and screw it on hand tight, using one hand. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, and there is NO need to use a strap wrench or any other device other than your hand.
Next, we begin the refilling process. Open the hood of the car, unscrew the oil cap and place it out of the way. Place a funnel in the filler hole. SLOWLY pour oil in, being very careful not to spill or splatter. It’s also a good idea to check for leaks after some oil has been poured in. Assuming there are no leaks, add 6 quarts of oil and then check the oil level on the dipstick. If it is below the operating range (indicated by the marks on the dipstick) add enough oil to meet the indicated range, being careful to not overfill. (Overfilling oil can be equally as bad as underfilling). My allroad will typically take 6.5 quarts.
Screw oil cap back on, double-check for leaks under the car, reattach the splash guard, clean up your tools and you’re done. You can take your used oil to any automotive parts stores for recycling. Most major chains take it at no charge. After driving around for a few minutes, double-check the oil level on even ground.
Go get that kid some well-earned animal crackers!